Leopard tortoises health life

　　
　　
　　History and general information--
As you can see from the pictures above the leopard tortoise's coloring has earned it it's name. The markings on this tortoise is irregular and vibrant. Every pattern is different from the other. As the tortoises age the shell pattern begins to change. Some older specimens tend to lose their vibrant pattern. There are "two subspecies" of leopard tortoises.
Stigmochelys pardalis pardalis is the more common leopard tortoise. S. p. pardalis occupies the eastern and southern portions of Africa.

Stigmochelys pardalis babcocki has the smaller geographic distribution. It occupies only a smaller southern portion of Africa.
Many breeders and keepers will argue that there are indeed two subspecies of leopard tortoises. There are no major differences between the two subspecies. It is impossible to tell the difference based simply on physical characteristics. Many South African herpetologists find that there are no definable subspecies.
General anatomy--
The leopard tortoise is ranked either the 3rd or 4th largest tortoise in the world when full grown. From what I have come to understand the largest leopard tortoise is smaller than the largest burmese mountain tortoise but the average adult leopard tortoise is larger than the average burmese mountain tortoise. The leopard tortoise is a very high rounded tortoise. It is thought that the shell of the leopard tortoise is meant to help right an overturned tortoise.The leopard tortoise is one of a very few tortoises in which pyramiding of the shell is observed naturally. It is not sure as to what is the exact cause of pyramiding.
Indoor habitat and care--

A hatchling leopard tortoise can easily be housed in a 20L (long) aquarium for its first few years of life. At birth, hatchling leopard tortoises weigh 35-45 grams, increasing in weight by about 3 grams every two to three weeks. A well-fed hatchling can grow in excess of 5 to 6 grams every two to three weeks. A very well-maintained hatchling can grow 3 to 4 inches per year. After about two years it is necessary to upgrade the enclosure to a 75 gallon tank or larger (turtle table). After 3 to 4 years of age, the tortoise will become much too large to realistically house in an indoor enclosure, but it is still possible as long as size and habitat requirements are met. No matter the size of the cage, they need a basking side that reaches around 100°F and a cool, shaded side in the 70s. When housed indoors, it is necessary to supplement the tortoise's diet with a calcium/Vitamin D3 powder additive and ultraviolet lighting with a UVB percentage of at least 7%. The UV bulbs must be replaced yearly because the UV is lost after that time. It is best to keep track of the bulb age, because it is very easy to overlook an old, expired bulb that is still lighting the tank.
Outdoor habitat and care--
Once a leopard tortoise is of appropriate size or it is in a secure enclosure, it is best to keep them outdoors. Ultraviolet lights are good, but natural sun is best. A leopard tortoise will grow at a faster pace if it is grown outside. A 5 year-old indoor-grown leopard tortoise at our current farm only weights about 7 pounds, whereas an 8 year-old outdoor-grown weighs over 30 pounds. In the wild, it can take a sulcata almost 30 years to become full grown, but in captivity with a steady diet and habitat, they reach full size much faster. A full grown leopard tortoise needs at least a 30 foot by 30 foot outdoor enclosure (see photos in our "Farm Pictures" section). If the enclosure is any smaller, they have the capability of eating all of the grass to a point where it will not grow back. In a larger enclosure the grass can survive so the tortoise can graze at will. Most books and articles will recommend that you pull sulcatas in when the temperature drops below 65°F. Here at Premium Tortoises, we leave the adult tortoises outside in 50°F or warmer. There have even been cases where sulcata tortoises are left outside in near-freezing conditions. That is generally not recommended (and not practiced here at Premium Tortoises), but everyone eventually gets their own techniques.
Diet--
Leopard tortoises are generally herbivorous, but in the wild they have been documented eating decayed carcasses. Those cases are the exception rather than the rule. Leopard tortoises feed on a diet of grasses and leaves in the wild. A massive amount of their natural diet is composed of long-stem fibrous material with very low protein. This is why it is very uncommon to find a tortoise with pyramiding in the wild, however some natural specimens have been found with extreme pyramiding. In captivity, leopard tortoises will eat a variety of greens, other vegetables, and a few fruits (rarely). It is best to feed them at least 90% vegetables and only 10% fruit. This is the diet that we feed, but some experts recommend feeding only vegetables. Most fruits have more vitamins and minerals in them than most vegetables so we consider it a very nutritious diet for these gentle giants. In addition to the fruits and vegetables, leopard tortoises need a vitamin supplement containing Vitamin D3 and calcium. Without this supplement, leopard tortoises are more susceptible to metabolic bone disease. This happens when the tortoise cannot absorb calcium, causing soft spots on their shells.
Health--
Leopard tortoises are very hardy. Heat is the main factor. Without heat, leopard tortoises cannot digest food properly, with leads to bacterial infection and stomach rot. Once this happens it becomes very difficult to rehabilitate the tortoise. In this case, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. It is much easier to keep the tortoise warm than it is to treat its medical problems. Eye and nose problems are common in most tortoises. Eye problems can be prevented by supplementing with Vitamin A. Carrots are a great source of Vitamin A. A runny nose is often a sign of infection or sickness. Raising the temperature and improving diet helps fight these symptoms.
Breeding--
Leopard tortoises breed very readily in captivity. There are many different ways to achieve breeding status. For specific questions, please contact us. We will be more than happy to answer your questions.